|
|
|
|
|
This plan includes my article on a translation of the Building Code into simple layman's terms for building residential ramps for the disabled in wheelchairs. I have given the desired slope and width, as well as height of handrails and curb.
The following drawings:
The plans have a List of Materials showing quantities and numbers of joists, ledgers, braces, posts and handrails; size and number of sheets of plywood for the deck; size and amount of screws and nails.
The instructions include the following topics:
A discussion of the Building Code in regard to ramps for the disabled. How to build a level landing area over the porch and steps; how to determine the length of the ramp; how to layout the slope; tips for a non-slip surface.
| For more information about our plans, please click here. | |
| |
| Purchase these plans for only $12.99. (secure, easy and fast) | |
| |
| |
| Or, get ALL of our plans for only $15.99 (a $578 value!) [more info] | |
| |
| See a complete listing of our plans and articles! | |
| |
Save money on your home renovations! You can become a member (click here for info) | |
| |
Get a free monthly newsletter (and free woodworking plans, too!) (click here for info) | |
| |
 For info on Dave, click here. | |
| |
"Just wanted to drop a quick line saying "Thank you" for your website! My wife and I just bought a fixer-upper and the resources we have found in your site have been invaluable. We appreciate the service that you are offering. We have used information from your site to do many things. Next on our plate is a stairway. And thanks to you, we're not going to have to pay $4000 to have it done. Keep up the great work, and keep'em coming!" NL | |
| |
| See a complete listing of our plans and articles! | |
|
| |
|
Some Helpful Links
| |
As mentioned in the article, the ramp should start with a level landing at its lower end as well as a level landing at its upper end. The lower end is usually the sidewalk or ground.
The upper end will be built over the top step or porch to arrive at the height of the threshold of the door. Make this landing the width of the ramp and about 5' long. If height is limited, use plywood or dimension lumber as packing under the plywood deck. If enough room, construct joists on posts, as shown. Be sure to put a plywood scab over the joint of the post and joist to keep it ridgid.
When building the ramp, remember to keep the slope greater or equal to 1 in 12. Measure the total height difference of the ramp from the sidewalk or ground to the door threshold. Convert the height difference into decimals of feet or inches, then multiply by 12 feet, respectively. For example, if the height is 1.5 feet or 18 inches multiply 1.5' x 12 = 18' or 18"x 12 = 216" / 12 = 18'. If the ramp length is over 20', put a landing in the middle which also gives a chance to change directions.
Once the length is determined, start by fastening a string line to the end of the upper level landing at threshold height and to the correct length on the sidewalk. Make a template for the joist by going to the lower end of the string with a short 2x4 and mark the position of the 2x4, where it has full width, allowing 3/4" for the plywood. Place another 2x4 on the flat, laying on the ground or sidewalk against the short 2x4, scribe on top of the flat piece marking the end cut of the joist. The joist will sit on this thickness of pad. It is never good building practice to bring a structural member to a sharp point. It allows easy rot and decay, a blunt end will last longer. Mark the angle of the joist at the upper end, as well, on a short piece of 2x4.
Cut the ends off the joists to match your template. Start at the upper end, building a ledger supported by posts. Keep in mind how you are going to brace your handrails. Notice the drawing shows the handrail posts extending from the ledger posts, then are doubled up on the inside. An alternate method of bracing the handrail, if restricted by limited height, other than embedding the post in a concrete filled hole, is shown in this drawing:
Construct a series of ledgers and doubled up posts to hold up the longitudinal joists at least every 3'. Toe-nail the joists to the ledgers. The handrail supports should be extended from the posts at least every 6'. Don't just support structural members with nails or screws. Always support these members with 2x4s, etc. such as shown for the ledger support.
In order to make the surface of the ramp non-slip, apply asphalt roofing, or paint with a floor enamel with either silica sand or chopped walnut shells added.
Every ramp is different, so be innovative with how you support the ledgers. At the bottom end use packing of 2x_ lumber or plywood in a continuous strip across the plywood. Nail or screw the blocks together to prevent shifting.
For permanent exterior projects such as this, I recommend using Exterior Carpenter's Glue in the joints and sealing the wood with a good quality oil stain or acrylic latex paint.
Dave
| (Question?) (About Dave) |  |