Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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|Volume 8 Issue 11|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members and Dave's answers, as well as a Tip of the Month and a Home Improvement Article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
I noticed we are getting more and more questions every month, so I have more to choose from for this Newsletter. Thank you for the nice comments I received, as well.
Apply finish to hardwood before grouting ceramic tile that's touching it. This prevents the grout turning the hardwood black: See Remodeling 9: How to Lay Ceramic Tile at http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/how-lay-ceramic-tile.php )
Here are the questions and my answers for the month of November:
When I wanted a ball top newel post, I bought a ball top newel post. If you bought a square newel and want to put a ball, acorn or mushroom on top, you need to put a dowel between the ball, etc. and the newel. Drill a hole the same size as the dowel, as shown:
Ball Newel Cap Acorn Newel Cap Mushroom Newel Cap
Insert with glue coated on the sides of the dowel and the insides of the hole. Don't fill the hole with glue and expect to be able to insert the dowel into it, due to hydraulic affect.
I recommend using the construction adhesive in a tube for gluing the treads down. It fill voids and prevents squeaks. For 1" treads use a 2 1/2", minimum, galvanized finish nail or the same length finishing screw. I like these "finishing" screws. They are a small headed screw made of hardened steel, like a drywall screw, with a small, square, Robertson head. They are found at finishing stores, particularly stores that sell handrail parts and accessories.
If the basement is dry and heated, there is no need to coat the bottom side of the tread. Usually 3 light coats of urethane are applied for hardwood floors, including stair treads.
Usually, in those circumstances, I put 2 coats on before installation, then fill, lightly sand and apply the 3rd coat. You may need to apply another coat over the fill spots, depending how it absorbs.
I don't know why they put the insulation in this way. I hope I have your picture correct. The 6" styrofoam insulation is laying flat above the drain pipe, not vertical against the wood foundation wall.
You don't need to insulate the perimeter drainage system around a house. This system collects run-off rain water that falls on the roof and also surface water that works its way down the side of the foundation wall. When it gets below freezing, there is no rain water or surface water, so there is no sense in insulating the drain pipes. Sometimes, we connect inside floor drains to the perimeter system rather than to the waste and vent plumbing system. This is usually an emergency system when a water tank leaks, so doesn't continually run.
My daughter lived in Cochrane for a while. The building code there was to run the downspouts away from the house, rather than into the perimeter drain. I have done work in Surrey, BC which has the same code.
The wood foundation definitely needs insulation either on the outside or the inside or both. I've built wood foundations that require pressure treated plywood as well as poly on the outside, used as a dampproofing.
Hope this helps,
That coiled drain pipe sounds like what we call Big O pipe, a flexible 4" pipe made for that purpose.
Glad to hear you will be using our Stair Calculator. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I got the PDF okay which is well done.
Yes, support the stringers wherever possible. The posts should be 2x4s on flat to fit under the stringer, nailed to a bottom plate fastened to the concrete (no footing required). The code requires either a pressure treated wood plate on the concrete or a sill gasket made for this purpose. Also, accepted is roofing material between the concrete and the wood plate.
Is the long joist, which supports the header that the stringer top is attached to, doubled up on each side? It looks like it, but just making sure. Oops, on Page 5 I think you ask that about the supporting joist closest to the door. Yes, it should be doubled up or a support placed under it, if that works better. The joists on both ends of the header should be doubled up or supported with a 2x4 post, etc. I see you tripled up the far supporting joist from the door. That's good, if the joist is nailed securely together. At least 2 - 3 1/4" nails, top and bottom at 12" centers.
Yes, fasten the stringer to the joists and any wall studs. Usually, if you want to stiffen the stringer by fastening a 2x4 under the treads, it should be placed on the inside. We also may want to leave clearance for drywall to slip between the stringer and the wall. This is done by fastening a 3/4" or 5/8" strip of plywood on the outside of the stringer, under the treads with 3 1/2 # 10 wood screws. This way you can still fasten the stringer to the joists and wall studs on the side. If you drill the stringer and use a 4 1/2" lag bolt, you can still do this. Or an option is putting 2x4 supports under the stringer. Supporting the stringer in either of these two ways should be done. The stringer top should be toe-nailed or screwed to the header, as well.
If it is just a matter of taking the jamb out and reversing it, leaving the door in the same place, remove the jamb. You should remove the casing on both sides. The casing is usually fastened to the jamb and the wall, both. It is easier to remove the jamb and flip it around rather than re-rabbet the hinges. I like to cut the nails or screws holding the jamb in place with a reciprocating saw with a metal blade. Notice if the casing has caulking around it. If so, cut around the caulking with a sharp utility knife. When pulling the finishing nails out of the casing, I find it better to pull the nails through the back side of the casing.
This doesn't leave a hole or chip the front of the casing. Checkout my article on hanging a pre-hung door, which maybe helpful. Remodeling 15: How to Install a Prehung Door
Remodeling 3: Home Improvement Ideas
With home remodeling, home improvement or home repair, it is always nice to get some ideas. Good home improvement ideas can come from magazines, TV programs and the Internet. Here are a few different home improvement ideas that may be of interest to you. I got these when I built my house.... read more at http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/home-improvement-ideas.php
We hope that this newsletter has been useful to answering some of your own questions on home improvement. Remember, as a member of DaveOsborne.com, you can research many articles on construction jobs, as well as getting individual support with your projects from me.
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