Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
Membership gives you full access to our hundreds of how-to articles, woodworking plans, converters, calculators and tables. Our Stair Calculator is one of the most popular on the internet. We have projects you can build for (and with) your kids, furniture for your wife, and sheds and gazebos. If you run into a problem or need advice your Membership includes unlimited email questions to me through our Ask Dave quick response button.
|Volume 10 Issue 1|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
Buy short lumber, if you can. Two 6 footers are cheaper than one 12 footer. Ref: Remodeling 4: How to Frame a Wall.
And a Bonus Tip:
A finishing carpenter never leaves the edge grain of plywood visible in his work. Use edging tape or apply your own edging. Ref: Remodeling 11: How to Cope and Install Crown Molding.
When applying exterior trim, etc., just like shingling a roof, always start at the bottom. The gutter, or eaves trough, is below everything, so everything above the gutter overlaps it. The alum. fascia is installed first, since it goes behind the gutter, then the gutter, the drip edge, then the soffit J, against the installed alum fascia on the inside. Where we don't use a drip edge, we extend the shingles about 1 1/2" past the sheathing of the roof, so that the shingles will eventually bend down over the inside gutter edge.
Here is a drawing:
Oh, ya, missed that.
You need to get under any roofing nails, along the first few inches up from the eaves. Lift up the nails with a flat bar, carefully. A helper is handy to carefully bend back the first row of shingles, so you can remove the nails and then slip the drip edge under the shingles and roofing felt at the eaves.
Then nail the felt and bottom row of shingles back, nailing the drip edges, as well. Put the nails back in the same holes, if possible. Then fold the top row of shingles over again. There should not be any roofing nails on top of the shingles. There is a mastic strip that should stick the top shingles to the row below it, when the heat of the sun gets to it.
5/16 isn't very substantial for a wall or ceiling covering on its own, for 16" studs or 24" trusses, it needs backing. Strapping a wall is good with old 1x4 or whatever, it doesn't need to be solid like drywall. How about strapping the wall on 12" centers and install the pine on a 45 or vertically?
Also, do I need to use ventilation chutes when I am insulating? Thanks
This is a very good question.
In a situation, like a vaulted ceiling, like this, you are required to strap the roof with 2x4s to allow for cross ventilation. This is something you should discuss with your building inspector. Of course, this needs to be done before the roof deck is applied.
Check out, in your area, if they have readily available a high density insulation for the 7 1/4" space. You may need to use Styrofoam at this location, whichever gives the higher R-value.
Another option is to drop the ceiling, a bit in this location. Whatever, I'm sure you would need to strap the roof, though. It is important to check this out with the inspector.
The ventilation chutes are used at the soffit to roof line to ensure the insulation doesn't plug up the ventilation from the soffits. They are used when you blow insulation in. Every other truss space is vented. You may be alright with the fibreglass, if you are careful to go just over the outside wall and leave space between the strapping and the top of the insulation, for ventilation from the eaves. With the strapping over the the entire roof, you should be okay.
Once you put the insulation in, the condensation should stop. To ensure keeping the insulation dry, I would apply only a wall type tarpaper (breathing) against the sheet metal, if not done with the initial installation. Don't put any poly on the cold side, which would cause more condensation.
It would have been better during the metal siding installation to apply 2 layers of tarpaper (when no sheathing is installed). Now that the siding is installed without the tarpaper, it still is a good idea to put it in from the inside. Just cut the rolls in half and bend them to fit between the studs and tight to the siding. Staple it in place against the studs. If there is 1x4 strapping on the outside studs, so the siding is fastened to the strapping, no need. The air space will eliminate any condensation. For the choice of tarpaper, use 30 minute or 60 minute and start at the top, so that if there is any overlap, it will lap so any outside moisture runs down the paper to the outside.
I wouldn't use 1" Styrofoam, since it is fairly expensive, as well.
FROM A MEMBER Framing a Fireplace
Wood framing around a fireplace or stove is okay with these restrictions:
The fire department governs the code in our area, as well as the inspections.
FROM A MEMBER Number of stringers in a set of stairs?
Using 1" ply really helps stabilize the tread, if you glue (using Construction Adhesive, in a tube) the tread to the stringers, the riser at the front and fasten and glue the riser at the back. So to be able to do this follow the following sequence:
In this way, you don't need a middle or anymore stringers, since the span on the tread is not 45" but the 10" of the tread between the riser and the front and the riser at the back of the tread. No problem putting in a center stringer, for added security.
Here is a drawing:
I liked your comments on the stair calculator, interesting points of view coming from a jeweler. My brother actually thought of that method. He is a mathematician rather than a construction guy. It is a very accurate way of laying out stairs. We used the step down method for years before they had calculators or computers. Personally, I would still copy the other stringers from the original pattern, rather than layout each one again and again.
Hope all goes well.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
A pocket door is so named because the door slides into a pocket in the wall and disappears, leaving only its leading edge visible with a little hooked pull showing to close it.
The framing of a pocket door is a bit more involved than a regular door. The rough opening should be the width of the pocket door doubled plus 2 1/2" for the pocket door frame, pocket door width and shim space and 84" for height. For example for a 30"x80" pocket door, the rough opening should be 62 1/2"x84" from the finished floor.
The pocket door frame will come assembled without the pocket door. It will come with a bag of hardware containing the pocket door rollers and wooden pocket door stops, which are strips of wood about 1 1/4" x 80" long. These are cut to length and installed after the pocket door is hung. Just put them in the pocket until ready to hang the pocket door, so you won't lose them.
The pocket door frame is installed...read more at http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/how-install-pocket-door.php
Well, that does it for another month. We hope some of these questions and answers will help you with your own projects. If you need more advice, join our website, then send me an email.
Dan and I appreciate your emails and support.
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