Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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|Volume 11 Issue 11|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
Both the sill plate and the bottom plate of a house frame should be either pressure treated wood or bedded down on top of a sill gasket or both. Ref: Roof 2: Calculating a Roof Pitch.
And a Bonus Tip:
When siding a house of various levels, start at the lowest elevation of the house. Ref: How to Build a House 5: How to Install Vinyl Siding.
Sounds like you have quite a job ahead of you, Angus.
As you say this is not my specialty as a carpenter, especially the stone foundation.
My advice to you is that you remove and replace the faulty mortar and parging. I'm doubting whether you need to remove the parging that is in good shape. If it's not broke, don't fix it, rule. There is an ideal tool to use for removing the mortar and parging, available at tool rental places - an electric chipping hammer. I bought myself a cheap air hammer with 3 bits: a point and 2 chisels. I chipped some rock in my driveway and was amazed at the bit not being mushroomed over. I paid $25 for this tool which makes it less than the cost of a rental, if you have a compressor.
Yes, I would fasten stucco wire to the wall before replacing the parging. Also, there is a product called an acrylic bonding agent that improves the adhesive quality of mortar sticking to concrete, rock, etc. This is a liquid used in place of or mixed with water in the concrete/parging mix.
If you intend to use the basement for living space or even for storage, I would suggest you putting up 2x4 walls, about 1" clearance from the foundation. This wall would be insulated with fiberglass batts, then poly vapor barrier then paneling or drywall. This would keep the dust down and the cold out. If doing this be sure the vapor barrier is always installed on the warm side of the wall.
Hope this helps,
Thanks, Angus, I'm glad to hear that we boosted your confidence. That is what our website is all about.
I would say this would be okay, especially if you can fasten the back edge either into the wall or the back of the cabinet. You need that front edging, too, which is good.
Yes, that's what I would do, as well - put 1 anchor in the center of the back rail for each 30" shelf.
I've put in cork flooring which is good, but would not be my choice for a bathroom. Cork is very porous. I would go with the ceramic tile on backer board. I don't think things have changed that much, except the liners they use today. They are using larger ceramic tiles and staggering the joints. Thin set mortar is still used, although an acrylic bonding agent is suggested now. You can seal the joints 48 hours after grouting. Just paint the grout lines - works great.
Is this what you are describing?
To cut the miter angle on the 1x4 - lay the 1x4 flat on a cutoff saw or table saw and cut the 10° end cut. With it still on the flat cut the miter cut at 45°.
As long as the base is square the 1x4s will be at 10/45° compound angles. If your cutoff saw is not a compound angle cut off, use your table saw with its bevel set at 45 and the angle of the cutoff guide set at 10.
Happy American Thanksgiving,
Here is a link to a small business that sells over the internet such things as ceiling tiles and moldings. Have a look at these tiles: drop in, glue-up, nail-up, in metal, leather, styrofoam for any room in the house. They also give you instructions for installation.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
It seems that a carpenter is always needing a thin feather wedge to shim something. I use old cedar shingles as thin feather wedges for shimming door and window jambs. Sometimes we need a thin feather wedge to lift a cabinet or shim something. Here is a quick way to make up some thin feather wedges on your table saw with a jig.
Out of a piece of 3/4" plywood or 1x6 board cut and assemble the pieces of the table saw thin feather wedge jig according to the drawing.
Notice the... Read more at Jigs 4: Feather Wedge Table Saw Jig
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