|Volume 13 Issue 7|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
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To secure the bottom of a stair stringer to a concrete floor or sidewalk, install screws and anchors into the concrete through a 2x4 between the stringers.
New plastic laminate can be glued down to an existing laminate counter top. Rough up the existing top and proceed as usual.
I prefer to support a long set of stringers, like this, from the ground up. Don't rely on support just with nails alone. Use the Simpson ties to position and hold the stringers and then support them as shown in these two diagrams:
This drawing shows support of the stringer with a 4x4 outside the stringer with a 2x4 ledger board nailed on below the stringer. This serves two purposes: to support the handrail as well as support the stringer. The 4x4s are attached to the stringer with 3/8" carriage bolts. This is explained in more detail on our website: http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/how-build-stairs.php
This drawing shows support of a long stringer with 2x4 posts under each stringer on both sides. Instead of the Simpson ties you could use plywood, as shown. The plywood idea is mostly for inside stringers, though, since plywood tends to delaminate when exposed to the weather, over time. Notice the 2x4 plate at the bottom of the stringers. This would be nailed into the wooden or concrete floor. What would be good in your case with a long stringer is to combine both drawings. Put the 4x4 posts on a concrete or pressure treated wood pad on the ground to support the handrails. Then fasten a 2x4 post to the 4x4 under the stringer. The support like this really takes the bounce out of the center of the stairs, as well as giving good structural support at the top and middle of the stairs.
With a prehung door, we apply the siding after the door is in. We sheet around the opening, then install the jamb and door and side to the trim on the jamb. The jamb of an outside prehung unit usually has a brick mold installed. This goes against the sheeting and the siding goes tight against the brick mold.
The supplier should know what he is talking about. I wouldn't change anything until you get the door and see for yourself.
Yes, the last step is the one below the upper floor.
It depends on the upper and lower floors. If they will be covered with hardwood, then don't allow for hardwood on the stairs. Calculate the total rise from the upper sub-floor to the lower sub-floor and deduct only the thickness of the 3/4".
If the hardwood is already on the upper and lower floors. measure the total rise to the upper and lower finished floor and subtract 3/4" and 5/8" off the bottom of the stringer. Mount the top of the stringer 3/4" plus 5/8" down from the finished floor.
Just a note. When you put the 3/4 on the stair treads, don't have an overhang to form a nosing. The nosing will come with the hardwood treads. Cut the 3/4 treads flush with the riser, below it.
Since the upper and lower floor measurements are to the sub-floors, we don't need to worry about their finishes since carpet and hardwood are about the same thickness as the hardwood on the steps, as well. The 3/4" on the stairs would act as a sub-floor with the 5/8" hardwood attached to it, as is or will be the same as the carpet on the upper floor and the hardwood on the lower floor.
Here are the calculations and drawings from the Stair Calculator:
|8 1/2||21 15/32||34 7/16||47 13/32||60 3/8||73 11/32|
|86 5/16||99 9/32||112 1/4||125 7/32||138 3/16||151 5/32|
|164 1/8||177 1/16||190 1/32|
Hope this helps,
Even with a 2x6 - 1 1/2" thickness, I would put in a center stringer. 36" is bit too wide!
Since your run is a bit short, we need to play with the numbers. To get drawings for your stringer, we can manipulate the stair calculator.
Enter 56 for total rise; 7 for rise and 8.29 for run and click Calculate.
Let me know if this works for you, or I can send the drawings by email. I would use a 3/4" or 1" nosing to widen the tread a bit. This cuts into your 3' space at the bottom, but you will still be according to code.
Yes, I usually just bend the tang over the end of the ledger and nail it in that way. You can cover it up later with a piece of siding or fascia board, etc.
Thanks, Emmett, I appreciate your nice comments.
Sorry, that's a tough one. I would contact the Delta people and see what they say.
8000 watts is a good generator. Most appliances like toaster, hot plate, hair dryer, etc usually take about 1500 to 1800 watts on 110 volts. I don't see a problem, just make sure not more than 4 of those higher amp appliances are on at the same time. For lighting use the CFL or LED bulbs, which really cut down on power.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
There are times in home improvement when the home owner must replace a plumbing fixture or at least remove it. I'm referring to removing the toilet, removing the bathtub and sink faucets or just removing a valve stem to replace its washer.
Let's start with removing the toilet, which should be removed if the toilet leaks at the floor (it's possibly the wax seal) or if the toilet is plugged and the pipes need cleaning with a snake or you are replacing the flooring in the bathroom with tile, vinyl, hardwood, etc.
Ever wonder why there are so many names for our favorite plumbing fixture? When removing any plumbing fixture, first turn off the water. The commode (from the Southern US) should have its own shut off down near the floor, offset to the left of center. This shut off should be equipped with a 3/8" OD (outside diameter) compression fitting for a 3/8" supply tube or closet riser (from "water closet", UK). Most modern heads (toilet) are designed for this size riser. If the one you have is an old 1/2" OD riser and shut off, better change it. For 1/2" nominal copper pipe coming out of the wall, I prefer a... Read more at Plumbing and Ventilation 2: How to Remove and Replace Plumbing Fixtures.
Hope you enjoy the Newsletter this month.
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