|Volume 13 Issue 10|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
This is the first newsletter to use the new designs. We hope you like it!
To find out if a wall is bearing or not look for the following - The wall will be 90 degrees with the floor joists. If the wall is parallel to the floor joist it is not a bearing wall, unless it supports one end of a beam or girder, which would have a post over it.
Recycle used paint thinner. Place it in empty paint thinner containers and let stand for a month or two. Pour off the clean paint thinner carefully — a bonus.
Put a framing square up in the corner to see if the corner is actually a perfect 90 degrees. You may need to miter each joint a slight amount. Remember, if you need to "adjust" the miter always trim both sides of the joint.
I've found with a popcorn ceiling to install the crown as usual, then caulk the ceiling line and/or the wall line with paintable latex with silicon caulking. If the surface is really rough, try scraping the popcorn off. It is usually quite soft and comes off easily. Wear a dust mask!
This is a common issue with crown - how to end it. What I think is important is to maintain the line. You have that ugly board on the ceiling which defines a line. My suggestion is to remove the board, obviously, (Sorry Ha!) end it on the right hand wall by going around the corner to where the board was. On the other side, the left hand wall which is longer, do the same thing, go around the corner to where the board was. Don't terminate the crown flush with the end of the wall. Leave a slight reveal - 1/4" or so. To terminate a crown, make an outside miter and return the crown back into the wall. Here is a picture of a typical crown termination:
Hope this helps,
Yes, the piece against the wall is a butt cut. This return is a very small piece. It is a miter 45 degree cut on both pieces, just to hide any end grain on the long piece of crown, giving it a finished end. We do the same thing for baseboard, as well.
No slitting of wrists allowed!
How wide is your crown molding?
Here is a drawing for you.
The small return piece, as shown, is what I'm referring to. The butt joint goes against the wall when the two miter joints are tight. This leaves a nice finish at the end of the molding.
This is the finished look.
Hope this helps,
PS Your problem might be the wide molding with laying it down on the crosscut saw. Be careful with short pieces like this, especially with compound miters. Always cut the 45 miter out of a longer piece first, then cut the butt cut last. Remember also you need to use the same compound cuts listed on the website list that you were using for the outside miter cuts on the crown already installed.
I would scrape or wire brush the flaking paint and loose concrete off. There are heavy round wire brushes that fit an angle grinder that would do a good job, or rent the tool.
Then parge the surface of the wall with a rich mixture of sand and cement, a topping mix would do. Make the mix stiff, with a little water, dampen the concrete surface with clean water and apply the mix with a trowel.
Thanks, for the email and pics, Trace, very nice job.
I didn't know I was that good a teacher! Ha!
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
While answering a question from a member on the subject of mold in her home, I came upon this article written in March 2001 by the Workplace Safety and Health Division, Manitoba Department of Labour & Immigration, Canada. This article tells it all, so I want to share it with you. Keep in mind that this report is mainly for contamination in large commercial buildings; however, information contained in this report can be helpful if problems arise in your own home as well as the office.
Hope you enjoy the Newsletter this month.
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