Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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|Volume 14 Issue 1|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
When installing a tall, narrow book shelf, make sure you secure the top to the wall to prevent the whole thing from falling over.
Always put the crown of a board up when installing rafters, joists and beams.
Depending where the crack is use either drywall mud or latex paintable caulking. In an inside corner, the caulking works well.
Thanks for the pic. Are you planning a gable roof under the existing roof or tied into it to extend it or lean to against the gable end of the house?
Rather than notching the post for the beam, you can place both laminations of the beam on the post and fasten a scab over the post and beam which ties it together. This is shown in the gazebo plans on our site, as well in article on decks.
I'm still away from home, so I don't have access to my beam span tables. You may need a triple beam for your snow load.
I would need the area you live in for the span of beams for the wind and snow loads. I have a table for those, as well, for the US, if you don't know your specific loads.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I'm back home now.
Since you are going with a gable roof, under the existing house roof, the span you are worried about is the 8' span from each side of the porch. For this beam or lintel you need a minimum of a double 2x8, #2 or better spruce, pine or fir. This beam should be attached well to the house with a double joist hanger and supported by a cripple or jack stud of 2x4 fastened to the wall, providing 1 1/2" of bearing surface for the beam to sit on. This info that I'm giving you is based on 21 lbs/sq. ft. snow load and an overhang of up to 2'. Mississippi has a max of 10 lbs/sq. ft. and minimum of 0, depending where in the state you live.
The rafters should be 2x6 on 24" centers nailed to a 2x8 ridge board; ceiling joists should be 2x8 at 24" centers. The ceiling joists are nailed to each rafter and to the beam according to this nailing table: http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/nail-table.php
You can cantilever the 2x8 beam out over the 6x6 post up to 4'. Fasten a 2x6 scab over the post and beam. I would add additional support with a brace off the post to the underside of the beam. This could be made of a double 2x6. See drawing, below.
Sheeting for the roof can be 1/2" OSB with the rafters at up to 24" on center.
Hope this helps,
Yes, the ceiling joist ties the front. Also the gable end sheeting and wall helps. You don't need a beam at the front since there is no load there, the rafters span over the front.
Yes, the ridge is supported by a post down to the top of the ceiling joist which is doubled up, under the rafter. The whole gable end is like a truss with the sheeting coming down, over the rafter and over the joist. Vertical studs at 24" centers are installed for the sheeting support. Use 1/2" OSB or plywood for this sheeting, same as the roof sheeting. Nail the doubled up joist and sheeting well on the rafter and the joist.
Here are 2 drawings, not to scale:
Plug into the calculator:
Total rise = 102.25
Customize Rise = 7.75
Run = 9.75
Tread Thickness = 1 inch ply...
This should give you a rise of 7 7/8, run of 9 3/4 with 13 rises and 12 runs.
Click Print Results and get the results and 2 drawings.
To find the run, I entered the total rise and clicked on the 7 5/8" rise and 10 1/2" run (for house). This calculated the rise and run with 12 runs at 10 1/2, which was too much for your space. I then divided the total run of 117 needed by 12 = 9.75 which I entered under the custom run.
Hope this helps,
I'll mention your feedback in our next newsletter. They want $300 for that GML 100 model, here! It measures up to 335' with an accuracy of 1/16" which is pretty good.
Steve is one of our members in France!
I don't have any problem with the redwood. It should be treated with stain or clear finish. People also let it go gray over time. With power washing, it comes back up quite nicely. I looked at some stats for Kansas - Frost penetration in Kansas is 32" and Wichita is 38". Yes, the bottom of the concrete footings should, at least, be at these depths. When placed on the soil, above the frost depth, when the frost comes out of the ground, in the Spring, it raises and softens the the soil.
Okay, Marc, I'll be here!
This is referred to as a drywall screw with a thin, flat Phillips head shaped like a bugle. I like drywall screws for inside purposes only. Use deck screws which are plated or coated for pressure treated wood, or the ultimate best is stainless steel - all flat heads to be countersunk.
Thanks, Brian. This is a good tip.
Are the "old work" boxes that you are referring to, the retro boxes that clamp onto the drywall or paneling?
Here is a pic taken from: https://www.lowes.ca/electrical-box/iberville-rework-device-box-with-nmd90-cable-clamps_g1440508.html
Rework Device Box with NMD90 Cable Clamps
To install a device into an existing wall:
Cut drywall according to shape of box
With brackets tightening the box against the wall
Tighten adjustable screws to fix the box into position
Pivoting ends for rework installation
Application: Old work
Box Type: Wall
Construction Type: Welded
Cover Included: No
Knockout Options: Bottom knockout (1) and ends pryouts (4)
Low Voltage: No
Number of Gangs: 1
Listing: CSA America
Dimensions & Weights
Box Depth: 2 1/2 inches
Box Height: 4.6 inches
Box Width: 2.18 inches
Box Dimensions: 2 1/2 inches x 2.18 inches x 4.6 inches
Ship Weight: 0.6lbs
Yes, I have used these many times myself. A bit more expensive than the regular, nail-on boxes, put great when you need a switch or duplex receptacle in a finished wall, or exactly in the middle of a t & g panel.
Thanks for this Brian. I was not aware of this plastic box - way better price, too! Thanks again,
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
How to frame a house wall is not that complicated, if one learns a few basic home improvement principles of house framing.
The two main components making up a house wall consist of the vertical pieces called the studs and the horizontal pieces called the plates. For a standard ceiling height of 8', the studs are cut 92 1/4", with a bottom, top and double plate that totals 4 1/2", giving a total height of 96 3/4". The extra 3/4" allows for the ceiling finish, with a bit of room. Studs are usually placed on 16" centers for a bearing wall supporting a floor, ceiling and roof and 24" centers for a ceiling and roof only. To save time in cutting all the studs a home improvement person can purchase pre-cut studs for an 8' or 9' ceiling. Studs come in solid wood or are made up of short stock, which is finger jointed together using a mechanical process of glue and pressure. These, however, cannot be used for plates since they lose their strength when not vertical. For exterior walls, most are made of 2x6s to enable the extra insulation to be placed in the cavity between studs. Most inside walls are 2x4 construction except walls specifically made larger for plumbing stacks, etc. Some walls separating closets or such, may be framed on the flat, giving only 1 1/2" between finishes, to help in tight designs.Home Improvement: Standard Doors and Windows
To frame in doors and windows, things get a bit more complicated. Standard sizes for doors and windows are usually... Read more at Remodeling 4: How to Frame a Wall.
Hope you enjoy the Newsletter this month.
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