
Volume 9 Issue 10 ISSN 1923-7162 |
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
Well, as you can see, I didn't get a newsletter out in mid September. I think, realistically, we will continue with a newsletter once per month. Sorry, Dan. We did, however, write a new article in a newly created section: Concrete Work 1: Exposed Aggregate Driveway. Check it out at: http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/exposed-aggregate-driveway.php
When building a project from wood, draw a simple sketch to make it easier to allow for thickness of materials. Ref: Remodeling 22: Remodeling Finishing Answers.
Hi Andy,
I can't comment on prices, since we live in different spots on the continent. The garden patio door, at least in my area, is a patio door set that will fit into the rough opening of a regular patio sliding door unit. It may be shorter than the standard 6'-8" door height.
Another thing to watch for is the grids. You usually have two choices: external or internal - referring to the muttin bars between the glass panes or on the outside. Obviously, the bars installed between the two panes of glass don't need cleaning and look much better, in my opinion. These are the internal bars. These are the basic differences for the standard doors. You can go for high end doors with oval glass and all the other designs.
When purchasing these doors, make sure you get the rough opening size from the salesman, if installing the rough opening before you have the doors on site, which is usually the case. Usually, both doors swing out, 180 degrees to open up the room to the outside - a nice feature. One door is considered a stationery door and the other is considered the active door, but they both should swing out.
Dave
Hi Andy,
Vents in a crawlspace are required by the building code, unless the crawlspace acts as a warm air plenum for the furnace. Otherwise, you need vents. These are very simple, plastic vents that open and close by sliding them horizontally. They fit into a 14" space, so they don't need special framing. They should be across from each other and spread out so there is good cross ventilation. There is a simple formula which helps you know exactly the number of vents to put in a crawlspace, based on the area of the floor in the crawlspace. The vents required in a non-heated crawlspace is not less than .1 m2 for every 50 m2 of floor area. This means 1 to 500; vent area to floor area.
In your case: 33' x 24' = 792 sq.ft, you need 1.6 sq. ft of venting. This works out to about 4 vents, spaced out on the 33' walls. I would suggest coming in about 8'- 3" in from each end at the center of the vents, leaving a 16'-6" space in the middle. You don't want too many vents to freeze the pipes in the winter. You can either frame the vents or cut the insulation out on the bottom of the vents and let it just lay over the vent in the winter. In the spring, each year, fold the insulation back out of the way of the vent and slide it open from the outside. Depending on your temperatures where the cottage is, you may need to have electric heat under the pipes to keep from freezing. Get the base board that has a thermostat built in. Remember to frame in an access door.
When installing the plumbing, don't run your supply line in from the end and laying in the crawlspace. Bury it under the slab then come up right in the middle of the plumbing area. This shortens the exposed plumbing from freezing problems.
No, I don't recommend windows in a crawlspace. I feel it would be a waste of money in a 3' high crawlspace.
Dave
Hi Andy,
Installing insulation before the sub-floor is a good idea, if it doesn't rain. Don't make the mistake of applying vapour barrier, the floor doesn't need vapour barrier. The carpet or lino becomes one. Also, put strips under the joists to hold the insulation in.
Another thought: do you really need to insulate the floor if the perimeter is insulated? Will you be using this cottage in the Winter?
Dave
Hi Andy,
No, don't use any vapour barrier on the bottom of the joists. That is a big mistake lots of guys make. VB has to be on the warm side of the insulation or it creates condensation.
Dave
Regular fibreglass batts.
Dave
Hi Andy,
No, you want the vapor barrier on the inside - the warm side and breathable tarpaper - 30 or 60 minute on the outside, between the framing and the siding. You never want to enclose a wall in poly where it cannot breathe.
Dave
Thanks, Andy, keep 'em coming! Every question you have, there is probably 100 out there wondering about the same thing, but too bashful to ask.
Dave
Hi Andy,
The crawl space access must be at least 20x28 inches. Here is a drawing of the access in a floor:
Double up the joists on each side of the opening. Frame in the opening with joist hangers to the double joist, to support the sides of the opening.
Dave
Hi Andy,
Engineered floor trusses is a totally different thing. You need to contact the people you bought these from and they will tell you what needs to be done. Otherwise, you lose you warranty if you start cutting these trusses.
Dave
Hi Andy,
PWF or permanent wood foundation is made from pressure treated dimension lumber and plywood. If the pony wall acts as a retaining wall for backfill it needs to be a PWF. If siding is attached you need the bottom plate PTW pressure treated wood, or standard lumber with a sill gasket under it.
Dave
Hi Andy,
The nailing pattern, size and spacing of the nails, should accompany the beam in the Specification papers from the Engineer.
Dave
Hi Andy,
Usually, we staple the sill gasket to the bottom of the plate. This keeps it off the concrete as well as forms a gasket between the uneven surface of the concrete and the wood. We do not need to caulk the bottom plate, if you follow these procedures. The bottom plate should be flush with the edge of the concrete slab. The siding is nailed to the bottom plate and extends below the plate, overlapping the concrete joint, so this method keeps any moisture out.
Dave
You can see that Andy has been busy the last month, or so. He writes, "we are building a new cottage on our lot at Lake Winnipeg. I have ordered a prefab. It is just over 1000 sf including a 250 sf loft. I just got the building permit after getting the foundation and structure plans engineer reviewed and approved (as required by the local RM - {authority having jurisdiction}). I am making a choice for foundation contractor. The foundation is thickened edge slab on grade, with 36" wood pony walls (for the crawl space), and an LVL (3 ply) 5-1/4x9-1/2 1.8E 33' center beam with teleposts. The prefab comes with 24' x 2 x 11-7/8" TJI engineered wood floor joists. It also comes with 4 - 12' x 11 7/8" - 2x6 end gable pony walls. I am planning to build the 2x6 PT pony walls myself. So from the end there will be concrete slab, 36" PT 2x6 pony wall, and 2x6 end gable pony wall."
Andy is going about his project the right way: using the internet for ideas, going with a pre-fab package, including proper plans, getting a building permit and getting proper engineered beams, getting a contractor for work he is not comfortable in doing himself, getting advice and asking questions.
Yes. The carpenter pencil is designed for scribing, so should be sharpened to a flat edge, rather than a round point. If we had our block planes handy, we would sharpen them on the plane. A utility knife works well, also.
Dave
Happy Canadian Thanksgiving, Kelly,
This sounds good. I would add a piece of sheet metal attached to the wall with 1" or longer, spacers. This piece should be about the size of the stove. The air in the 1" or greater, space remains cool. Keep it saw dust free, when working with the fire on. Get in the habit of blowing off the dust every once and awhile.
Dave
Hi Kelly,
No, I would not put poly on the cold side of the wall, always on the warm side - between the insulation and the drywall. No problem with a breathable tar paper, though, which keeps moisture in but lets vapor out.
Looking forward to the weekend, although every day is a long weekend when you are retired. We are having a mini family reunion at a park not too far from here so that is always good!
Later, Kelly,
Dave
You need to put a varnish or clear finish over the stain. The stain only changes the colour of the wood, it does not protect it. I prefer a polyurethane finish such as Flecto Varathane or Minwax.
This is the finish applied to hardwood floors. This finish may be slippery with socks on, but not that bad.
Dave
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
Here is a sketch that may help explain the framing detail for a rounded corner or arch:
Cut out the desired curve from a piece of 3/4" plywood with a jig saw, etc. You need two such pieces for each side or four for both sides.
Nail the plywood curve flush to the edge of the framing on each side of the 2x4 wall, between the header and the cripple.
Nail or screw the drywall on the face of the wall first. Cut the shape of the drywall out with a drywall saw, following the plywood edge as your guide.
Depending on the radius of the curve you can either...read more at http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/rounded-door.php
Well, that does it for another month. We hope some of these questions and answers will help you with your own projects. If you need more advice, join our website, then send me an email.
Keep up the good work, Andy. I guess the snow is falling about now!
Thanks for your emails and support.
Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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