|Volume 11 Issue 8|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
Formica is applied to the plywood top with a solvent based (not latex) contact cement on both surfaces applied in an area with lots of fresh air. Ref: Cabinets 4: How to Make a Formica Counter Top.
And a Bonus Tip:
Erecting batter boards is a good ideas to help get an excavation square and accurate. Ref: How to Build a House 2: The Concrete Foundation.
I don't agree that my tip is incorrect, only that I did not mention the external fittings line of Pex. I don't like those bulky fittings. The price of the crimping tool is within the reach of most homeowners or available at most rental yards. In my opinion the internal Pex fittings are far superior to the external ones. I won't advocate a product which I won't use myself. Sorry.
Thanks, Roger, I appreciate your comments.
I'll include your comment in our next newsletter, using only your first name, of course. I will do a bit of research on the external variety, too. I haven't used this type, but have extensive experience in the internal variation. I'm biased, I guess.
Note: Roger is absolutely correct and I appreciate his email. Even though I don't use or endorse a product, for me to do a good job in advising you, I should include these as an option, giving my opinion and leave the decision up to you. In my line of work as a builder and renovator, I bought a $200 tool for crimping these fittings. These are also available at rental yards and since I bought my tool, I see they are available for half the price. A homeowner who is adding or repairing the odd supply line should know about the fittings that are available to him/her without needing to crimp the fitting together. Just keep in mind that some households have more water pressure than others, so check that out in your own areas.
Usually the trim on stairs is a 3/4" skirt made of 1x10 or 1x12. The idea is to install this on the outside of the stringer when building the stairs, originally. You can install a skirt after the fact, but is a bit of a trick to cut out each tread and riser. You need to scribe each tread and riser to fit perfectly. If you could send me a pic of the stair tread to wall joint and let me know how much the gap is that would be good. I need a closeup of the nosing, as well.
The drawing below shows a skirt installed.
Thanks, Roger, that's a good one. No, I didn't know about that. I know there are brush cleaning agents out there, but not as good or cheap as you describe.
Sounds as if this is the stuff on TV where they say, "Shout it out" for laundry stain?
There is no hard and fast rule on the stringer skirt, as we call it, it should be about 3/4" above the line of the nosings to look good.
Yes, you are correct. the pressure treated wood is treated with a pesticide to kill bugs not from dry rot which is caused by lack of air movement. The staining of all 4 sides and edges before installation also applies to siding as well. PTW should be used for the structural framing support of stairs or decks less than 12" from the ground. One misconception of PTW is that it repels rain, as is. You can stain or paint PTW after it has dried out thoroughly. It is not good practice to use it inside the house, either. It is slowly being replaced by powder coated steel in kids playground equipment.
I just arrived back from vacation and found your email in my Junk folder. Sorry about that! I personally would miter the corner and leave a gap between the boards. I would cut down the gap a bit to 1/16 to 3/32. I have seen this done by other tradesmen and it looks okay. Of course, they used a cut off saw rather than a circular saw. You could make up a guide for the circular saw so you could have a perfect cut, as shown on our website: http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/circular-saw-cutting-jig.php Another trick we use in doing a miter by hand is to recut through the miter with a hand saw, by fastening the boards together, first.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
These days, everyone should know what the term Going Green represents. As a youth in the 60's, I remember the protests of the hippies against the Vietnam war and the lack of concern and care for our planet. Today we have groups like the Sierra Club and Green Peace whose role is to educate the public. The movement has grown to the point of government changes nationally including International summits on the environment. Wow! Who said the youth of our world can't influence the powers that be.
Our governments have introduced rebate incentives to their residents. They agree that we need to preserve and care for our resources: forests, rivers, lakes and oceans, soil and air, oil and gas and even our ozone layer, which neutralizes the harmful radiation from the sun. We've seen rebates on energy saving light bulbs and appliances, as well as government legislation for manufacturers to save energy on products from vehicles to toilets.
US residents can find out what rebates they qualify for at: the Energy Star site.
Canadian residents can go to this link for Canadian government rebates.
As people who share the same planet, we don't have to be legislated to care for our resources. Here are some of the things we can do, individually and as a family, that won't cost us a penny:
When the time comes to recycle your appliances and electronics look for the Energy Star sticker for the most energy efficient products. Purchase natural organic compounds instead of chemically produced ones. Choose latex paints rather than oil based. Replace incandescent bulbs with energy saving, cooler burning flourescents. Grow your own vegetables or buy local. Recycle products and reuse recyclable products. Drink filtered water rather than purchasing an abundance of small containers or re-fill your own containers for water, coffee and other fluids.
Maintaining our homes is not an expensive procedure, but good maintenance will save in energy costs. Since about 45% of our utility expense is for heating and/or cooling... Read more at Going Green 1: Tips
Thanks for the questions, this month. I hope my answers help the readers of this Newsletter, as well.
Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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