|Volume 14 Issue 3|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at https://daveosborne.com.
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To make a table saw, fasten a portable circular saw under a table with the blade through the board. For the fence use a straight piece of board held with C-clamps.
Always put the crown of a board up when installing rafters, joists and beams.
What is the other dimension - 28'x what? That is a wicked span without posts!
These things can usually be done, but the question is how much money does she want to spend to get it done. To keep the cost down, she could go with a triple beam of 2x10 with a post in the center. Then lay the members of the pergola across the two beams, cutting the span down to 12'. If she refuses to go with the posts in the center then I would tell her that an engineer would have to design the size of beam to span the entire 28' which won't be cheap and may look ugly. There are trusses which will span 28', no problem, they have to be engineered, though.
This next email refers to one of my Weekly Tips:
Pex piping is a good alternative to expensive copper pipe in a home renovation. Adapters from copper pipe to Pex are available.
A crimping tool is required which can be purchased or rented.
Here's an example of a simple, 1/2" union: Sharkbite U004LF 1/4-inch x 1/4-inch Sharkbite Coupling (Lead Free) Roger
Thanks for the comments, Roger. In my reno business at the time, we only had large plastic unions, not like your sample pic. I eventually bought my own crimper. Now the crimpers are very inexpensive compared to what I paid, then. I still think that the pex crimp fittings are a better choice - definitely faster to install than turning a couple of wrenches. I have my own water supply with the older Quest piping with the crimp fittings and have not had a bad connection in 24 years.
That is faster then. Isn't new technology great!
Thanks for the update. I will put this in the next newsletter, if that is okay with you. I never use anyone's last name, just their first name.
Thanks, Roger. I appreciate the update on Pex products.
Thanks, Trace, glad we are part of your reno life.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
Usually a ceiling is just a nice covering of the bottom of the next floor up. A drop ceiling, however, is lower than the bottom of the upper floor.
There are different reasons for making a drop ceiling. Some home improvement people put a drop ceiling in the basement so it's below the pipes, ducts, etc. Other home improvement people may have a 10' ceiling in an old house and want to drop it down. It's very common in a bathroom to put in a drop ceiling if the house is built with a 10' ceiling.
To drop the height of a ceiling down, follow this home improvement procedure. Nail 2x4's as a ribbon around the perimeter walls, nailed into the studs. The bottom of the 2x4's—plus any drywall or other home improvement finishing material—would be the new height of your ceiling.
Go to the longer dimension wall, the wall along the length of the room, and layout on the ribbon on each long wall, 2x4's spaced apart by 16 inches on center (O.C.), so the 2x4's span across the width of the room. You can use joist hangers here but only nail them on one side for now. Don't install the 2x4's yet. Just mark on the ribbon where they will go.
Make up a double 2x4 beam ('strongback') the length of the long wall. Stagger the joints—if any—and place this strongback above and resting on... Read more at Remodeling 6: How to Make a Drop Ceiling.
Hope you enjoy the Newsletter this month.
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Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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