Building Confidence

Volume 21 Issue 3
ISSN 1923-7162

Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at

Tips of the Month

Safety Tip: Guards on cutoff saws and circular saws are very important and should never be removed. Even wedging the guard up is a bad habit to get into. Any renovation to a power tool should be carefully thought out. Most manufacturers have a process to develop safety with their power tools. It doesn't make any sense to remove them. Keep those power tool guards on.

Safety Tip: Don't use a grounded power tool outside in the rain without proper grounding. All outside plugs should be a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). All power tools used outside should be plugged into one of these receptacles with a 3 wire grounded plug on the extension cord on both ends.

Ask Dave!

Hi, Dave. This question is regarding a handrail in a staircase. The staircase goes up 3 steps to a landing, makes a 90-degree turn to the left, and up 13 more steps. I want to make a handrail for the left walls, the handrail being two pieces joined at a miter joint. The handrail will make a 90-degree turn while going uphill at 37.78 degrees (7.75" rise, 10" run) before and after the turn. Do you know of a calculator that can compute the angles for the compound miter? The calculators I've found all assume you are building a box of some sort. Thanks!

Excellent question, Brian.

First of all, we don't mitre corners in an inside handrail. It is better to purchase pre-made stair rail pieces. You would use this quarterturn with cap & Up easing for over a newel post. You match up these pieces with the shape of your handrail.

Check out our article on handrails in the article in this newsletter below.

Use this quarterturn if you are having a dowel top newel post in the corner. I lay these angles out right on the stairs and landings, themselves. With the up easing, the mitres are almost 90s, so you can fit them together and see exactly how much you need to trim the angle. Remember that you trim the same amount off each piece. Fasten these together as shown in the article and pic below.

These pieces are available at Wood Finishing stores.

Hope this helps,


Hello, Dave: We have a long rear wing on this old farmhouse and we are planning to build an addition onto the side. The wing is two stories in height and has a 4/12 standing seam metal roof. Obviously here in Maine we get quite a lot of snow and when the sun has worked on the roof a while the snow comes off in an avalanche! We do not want the snow to fall off the roof onto the roof of the new addition and I know I will need to use some sort of snow/ice rail or other snow diverter system to allow the snow to more gradually melt off the roof. So do you have a suggestion about which type of system might be best to use?

I found a site for you here:

Here is a pic which I think would be a good design:

Photo of a snofence.

It comes with clamps for the standing seam and ice dams to keep the ice build up from sliding under the rails, as well.

Hope this helps,


My question is about the outside of my house. This year I have to replace the clad board due to it being rotted. I have particle board with an R-value of 1 underneath. I am thinking about replacing the particle board with foam board. If I use foam Board (it has an R-value of 3) do I still use a Tyvek wrap to seal everything up before I attach the clad board or am I way off base. What would be the correct way to do this. My house is small 36x24 outside.

What is the particle board on the wall now? Is it fibreboard or OSB (Oriented Strand Board) made up of laminated chips. OSB is recommended for wall and roof sheathing, as is plywood, but fibreboard (made up of sawdust) is not. If the material on the wall is OSB, and is in good shape, I would leave it on to give the wall the bracing effect that it needs. There are a few insulation Boards you can choose from. Compare the thickness, size, R value and cost of each to help with your decision.

In recent years we are required to put up a rain-screen wall, consisting of 1 1/2" rippings of 3/8" treated plywood over the Tyvev or tarpaper, fastened to the wall studs. It also includes a special screen fastened to the bottom of the strips to keep bugs out. Any rain or moisture can then run down this 3/8" gap between the Tyvec and the cladding on the exterior wall, onto the ground. This is required in wetter climates and keeps the cladding from getting rotten, as in your case.


Feature Article of the Month

(taken from our website:

Stairs 5: How to Install an Inside Handrail

Have you ever admired the staircase in a well built house with its flowing balustrade? The parts for this type of handrail system are readily available in most wood working finishing stores and can be assembled with a little determination, perseverance and guidance.

The Newel Posts

The first step is to install the newel posts, preferably before any carpet is installed and after any hardwood floor is down. The newels are sturdy posts usually made of laminations of oak (for staining) or hemlock (for painting) about 3 1/2" square and turned to exotic shapes on a lathe. The newels and spindles usually are matched to the same shape. [See diagram]

Drawings of styles of spindles and newwels including square-top spindle, dowel-top spindle, ball-top newel, dowel-top newel and dowel-top or square-top half newel.

The newels are the foundations for the handrails, providing the support needed for a safe and secure system. There are three types of newels on the market today: the ball top (the most popular); the dowel top, also called the underscroll mount; and the square top. Newels are placed around the perimeter of a stair opening in the floor to act as guard rails. As with most guards they have a finished height of 36" from the floor to the top of the rail in a single residential dwelling. Obviously, we can't just screw the post to the top of the floor and expect it to be secure. The newel is installed through the floor and is notched to fit the side of the floor joist and attached with carriage bolts or lag bolts. The newel should be flush, on the opening side, with the finished wall covering such as drywall. This allows a baseboard to be installed later. [See photo]

Photo of a balustrade base board on stairs.

To install the newels on the stair landing, attach them to the riser above the landing if the stairs are above the landing or to the riser below the landing if the stairs are below the landing. [See photo]

Photo of our newel attachment.

If the stairs end on the lower floor not attached to a wall on one side or the other, a volute or scroll may be used to end the handrail on the open side. These volutes can be purchased turning left or right.

Drawings of 18 styles of stair balustrade fittings.

Drawings of various offset and riser styles including level half turn, left wall offset, right wall offset, left Y wall offset, right Y wall offset and straight 2 1/2 inch or 3 1/2 inch riser.

The first step ending in a volute should have an underscroll newel attached through a step extension onto the surface of the floor. [See following]

Drawing a scroll assembly with rail connection detail with measurements.

The Handrail around a Landing or Floor Opening

Once the newels are installed, the top and bottom rails are attached. For around the stair opening, the top and bottom rails including balusters or spindles are assembled as a unit. Drawing of rail profiles for newel post tops.There are two types of rail systems available, the ones with and the ones without a dado and fillet (see drawing). The choice is yours. Start with cutting the rails to fit tight between the newels, plumb the posts as you are taking this measurement.

Layout the placement of the spindles at 5" centers starting from the center and going each way. A trick I do is to lay a strip of masking tape on top of the bottom rail and lay the centers out on this. If the end spindle comes too close to the newel, start over in the center and layout a space in the center rather than a spindle. This should correct the end spindle spacing against the newels. The building code states that a 4" diameter ball cannot pass through the spaces between spindles or the space between the spindle and the newel post. The 4" ball relates to a baby's head.

Once happy with the spacing of the spindles, drill the center marks with a 5/32" bit. Turn the bottom rail over, bottom side up and countersink the holes so the #8 x 1 1/2" flathead wood screws will be flush. Clamp the bottom rail in the center of the underside of the top rail and drill through the pre-drilled bottom rail to mark the centers of the spindles on the top rail. Remove the bottom rail and pre-drill the top rail for 2 1/2" double ended screws. Insert these screws into the top rail and screw the spindles into these, add a touch of glue to the ends of the spindles. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth.

The length of the spindles should be sufficient so that the top of the rail is 36" from the finished floor. Turn this assembly over with the top rail resting on the floor and the spindles sticking straight up. Attach the bottom rail to the spindles with the underside facing up, showing the countersinks. Screw the 2 1/2" screws into the center of the ends of each spindle, offset a finishing nail to help keep the spindle from turning. Start them first, then tighten them up together.

Put the whole assembly into position, pre-drill for wood screws from the top rail into the newel on the angle, use glue on all joints. There are small headed, hard screws available for this purpose at the finishing store. Screw into the floor through the bottom rail. Plug the holes.

Drawing of securing spindles in a handrail balustrade.

The Handrail Down the Stairs

For the handrail on the slope of the stairs, there are three ways to go about installing the spindles. There may be a pony wall closing off the open side of the stairs, there may be a bottom rail coming down the steps or there could be two spindles attached to each stair tread. In assembling the rails and spindles going down the steps, it is best to assemble the rails first and install the spindles one at a time. [See following diagram]

Drawing of how to secure newel posts to a pony wall showing fillet, bottom rail, lag screw, small scroll newel post top, underscroll newel, stair end, riser, base, extension cap and base plate.

With the spindles on the step, usually 2 per step, you want the flow the same all the way down. That is, you want 2 spindles per step, but they must be the same distance apart at the handrail. This is tricky and takes a bit of patience and layout. The centers of the spindles, if 1 1/2" square are 5" center to center. This can be varied a little to suit your tread width. Make sure the distance between the spindles is not more than 4" even where they are tapered, remember the 4" ball. Coming down the slope of a handrail makes it easier to fasten the spindles underneath the handrail at the top side of the spindle. At the bottom fasten them on both sides. Use the same type of hard, small head screw as mentioned with the top handrail to newel joint, except a bit shorter.

Drawing of stairs showing each component with technical names for each.

Here are some pictures of my staircase. It was the first I did and the most complicated. Notice the round top and bottom rails. These are bent around the shape of the floor or landing using strips of oak, in my case, provided for this purpose. I used blocking nailed to the floor with wedges to squeeze the glue out from each individual board. When dry the pieces were taken to my local finishing store to be machined to the same shape as the top and bottom rails. You may notice at the wall end of the round rail, I chose not to use a half newel post. This is another option.

Photo of two angles of a rounded stair case with a landing and balustrade.

Photo of stairs from the top showing the balustrade.

I found the sales people at the finishing store were excellent in helping me buy the correct parts, including handouts for challenging assemblies. Bring them a drawing of your staircase and they will help you out. If by some rare chance you run into trouble, I'm just a click away with an email.


Almost the End

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(Ask Dave) (About Dave)

Your source for building tips, woodworking & furniture plans, house plans and building advice directly from Dave...

Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.


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