|Volume 21 Issue 9|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at https://daveosborne.com. We are into our 21st year putting out this Newsletter. Dan and I would not be able to do this without your input every month. Thank you and keep the questions coming!
Make a feather board to keep pieces tight against a saw fence when ripping. Also make a push stick to save fingers when ripping narrow pieces on a table saw.
When retro fitting a plumbing fixture that requires its own vent, use a mechanical vent.
No, I would not put poly on the cold side of the wall, always on the warm side - between the insulation and the drywall. No problem with breathable tar paper, though, which keeps moisture in but lets vapor out, or used commonly today Tyvek.
Looking forward to the weekend, although every day is a long weekend when you are retired.
How is this?
Below is the frame - 2x4s on the flat. Notice the brace with the bottom of the brace against the hinge side. Hinges are 4" strap hinges in black or galvanized. Make sure you have about 1/2 " clearance between the two gates and about 3 or 4 inches on the bottom.
Fasten the boards on the frame first, then cut the tops off to suit.
Thanks, glad you like it. No charge, just enjoy working with your teens.
Ha! You got me there! I had 3 daughters myself, no boys. One was a book worm, and 2 were pretty handy around the house. Their husbands are jealous that they know more about do-it-yourself stuff than they do.
Yes, you renew on Oct. 3rd. It should be automatic unless you cancel.
The angle of your particular handrail depends on the angle of your stairs. Every set of stairs is different. The easiest way to find the angle of your own handrail is to lay a straight edge down the stairs resting on top of each nosing. Get a level and plumb a line (scribe a vertical line) on the straight edge (a 2x4 for example) or a small piece of plywood. This is the angle of the handrail that will match your stairs. If the handrail is already in place, you can level a short board against the handrail and scribe the angle, made by the rail, on the board.
Here is a drawing:
Hope this helps,
Hi and welcome to our website,
The cheapest fill to get is what they call 'pit run'. It is a sand, gravel and rock mix. It compacts not too bad. You can get this from a guy with a dump truck that has access to a gravel pit. I once had a friend of mine with a backhoe who was able to get permission from the department of highways to clean a gravel slide off the gravel road and use it for my driveway. It was close to my property, so I just paid for the backhoe time. This is a rare occurrence, but worth a checkout.
Compaction of fill is very important when pouring concrete over it is concerned. Use a plate compactor, as shown on the left, readily available at most rental yards. Spread the fill in not over 6" layers and run over it with the compactor until the correct level is built up.
The compactor is heavy and needs two men to unload it, unless you back up to a hill and pull it off your truck.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com)
A feather board is a handy jig, something you can make yourself or purchase ready made.
Feather boards are used for two purposes. First to hold your work when ripping tight against the table and tight against the table saw fence. Second, they are used to prevent kickbacks when ripping small pieces, if the piece twists between the blade and the table saw fence. There are feather boards out there that you can buy that will do this very well, they either clamp on the table saw fence to hold the work tight to the table or clamp in the miter slot of the table saw to hold the work against the fence. There are other feather boards out there that actually are magnetic and hold securely anywhere on the table. That's the problem of a home made feather board, how to fasten it to the table to hold the work against the table saw fence. Here is a table saw feather board I designed:
Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to length the width of your saw table and rip it 7" wide, for now. Lay it in position against the table saw blade and flush on the table ends. Mark out the position of the front of the table saw blade. The feathers should be positioned as shown, with the feathers a bit ahead of the blade. Layout a 3" swath of feathers at a 45 degree angle as shown. Cut the feathers as shown by using your miter fence with the blade set at 45 degrees and about 1 1/2" high.
The cuts for the feathers are about 1 1/2" deep and spaced about 1/8" apart leaving the feathers about 1/8" thick. Push the plywood slowly to avoid breaking up the veneer, use a sharp blade with about a 1/8" kerf.
Make sure there is a 1/8" slot before the first and the last feather. Rip the jig to 6" wide and leave the feathers sticking out on the one side as shown. Be careful coming close to the feathers on each side, finish the rip with a handsaw or jig saw. You should have the finished jig as shown in the sketch. Clamp it to the table as shown, with just a bit of pressure against the work piece. The work piece should only be able to move forward and binds when pulled backwards.
Make a similar model for the table saw fence. This one will be as wide as the table saw fence and long enough to allow two clamps, as well.
Watch those fingers, use our table saw push stick.
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Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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