Building Confidence
| Volume 22 Issue 2 ISSN 1923-7162 |
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at https://daveosborne.com. We are into our 21st year putting out this Newsletter. Dan and I would not be able to do this without your input every month. Thank you and keep the questions coming!
Tips of the Month
When framing a wall in a renovation, be sure to add backing at corners, intersections and behind fixtures.
When removing studs from a bearing wall, be sure to install a header to carry the weight over the opening.
Ask Dave!
How does one determine the swing of a door?
Conventionally, a door opens into a room. Stand on the outside of the door facing into the room. If the door swings to the left, it is a left hand door; if it swings to the right, it is a right hand door.
For a door that opens outwards from a room, say for example an outside door or a small bathroom, the bevel on the door is reversed. Also, the lockset hand is reversed. Stand on the outside of the room facing into the room, as before. If the door opens towards you with the hinges on the left, it is a left hand reverse door; if the hinges are on the right, then it is a right hand reverse.
Dave
How do you frame in a bifold door? What are the rough opening measurements?
A bifold closet has a finished opening the same size of the door, so allow for that when framing it in. That is, the rough opening would include the thickness of the wall finish, say 1/2" drywall, for example, plus the door. For a 3068 bifold, meaning 3'-0" x 6'-8", the rough opening would be 36" for the door width + 1/2" + 1/2" (drywall on both sides) = 37". The height would be 80" for the door + 1/2" (drywall on the top) = 80 1/2". So the rough opening is 37" by 80 1/2" plus 1" for carpet or hardwood. So lay out accordingly.
Dave
Any suggestions on how to make the joint when you butt drywall to a timber frame post?
Yes, when making a butt joint to an exposed timber or to a window jamb, use a plastic J molding for drywall. The J molding is cut to length and slipped over the raw edge of the drywall. When installed it leaves a nice finished reveal which can be painted with the drywall. Wide side goes to the back of the drywall. Just slip it on and install the drywall, it won't go anywhere.
Dave
On a 2x6 exterior wall, how thick do you make the door header?
The header is the same thickness as a 2x4 wall. Don't add a 1/2" spacer, just nail the two 2x10s together as usual. Nail the header in place with the outside of the header flush with the outside of the wall.
Nail a 2x6 (on the flat) under the header and against the two cripples. This gives the thickness of the wall below the header for drywall (or any other type of wallboard) on the inside of the wall. Make sure the 2x6 trim, on the flat, is not nailed on under the cripples. The cripples should be supporting the header directly as in this drawing below:
Dave
Do you use tar paper for moisture barrier under vinyl siding, the same as felt paper? We have 15 and 30 pound, which one? Is Tyvek house wrap better?
The moisture barrier behind siding is a special breathable tar paper, not roofing felt. It is listed in minutes of water penetration, such as 15, 30, 60, minutes. Roofing felt is a non-perforated tar paper which is listed by its weight, such as 15, 30, 50 pounds per 100 square feet (a square). Tyvek is a good product for walls, it also is breathable.
Dave
Does the thickness of the stair tread change the total rise?
The thickness of each stair tread does not affect the total rise whatsoever. When the stair stringer is laid out, the thickness of the stair tread is taken off the bottom of the stair stringer and added on at the top when you install the stringer, so it cancels itself out.
When you put on the stair tread, the rise remains the same, since you add the thickness of the stair tread on the top of the riser and subtract the thickness on the bottom of the same riser. These two also cancel each other out.
Dave
The bottoms of my stringers are resting directly on cement. How can I maintain some sort of dry spacing so they don't rot out like the old ones did?
If the stringers aren't pressure treated, put a piece of asphalt shingle between them and the concrete. Concrete and wood don't react well together in a damp environment, as you've seen. This should keep the wood dry. You should be able to find discarded pieces of shingle at a local construction site.
Dave
Feature Article of the Month
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com)
Jigs 8: Circular Saw Cutting Jig
When you find it necessary to cut or rip large pieces with a circular saw, a handy cutting jig helps keep the circular saw cuts straight. I use my circular saw cutting jig mostly for cutting gable ends for cabinets to length, as well as, trimming doors, etc.
This circular saw cutting jig is simply a 4' or 8' strip of 1/4" plywood with a 2" ripping on one side. The circular saw is placed on top of this circular saw cutting jig and slides along the 2" ripping to cut the correct width of the base of the jig. The circular saw cutting jig is clamped on top of the door, which is laying on a couple of saw horses. Here are pictures of mine:
Notice that the circular saw blade guard is held up with a wedge and that the plywood on the bottom of the guide, underneath the circular saw, comes out flush to the inside of the circular saw blade. This way you can mark your door or whatever piece to be cut and the edge of the circular saw cutting jig will be your cut line, no measuring required from the circular saw base edge to the cut.
Dave
Almost the End
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Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
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