
Volume 22 Issue 5 ISSN 1923-7162 |
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
When determining the swing of a door, stand outside the room. The door should open into the room. If the hinges are on the right hand side, it is a right hand door, it swings to the right.
Clean out air ducts once per year. These are the dryer, bath and kitchen fan ducts, as well as, furnace and HVAC (Heating, Venting, Air Conditioning) ducts.
Only put in the thickness of the tread, not the riser. If the carpet is going on the floor as well as the treads, don't include that thickness either. The purpose for putting in the tread thickness is to know how much to cut off the bottom of the stringer and then to drop the stringer down that amount, as well, from the top floor. So if the finish on the stairs is the same as the top and bottom floors, this will make each riser work out to be the same height, which is what you want.
If you have any more questions or don't understand this, please continue to ask questions, until you are satisfied. A drawing or photo may also help me to understand better what you are having difficulty with.
Dave
Hi Ron,
It is getting warmer, here on the coast, 23 C (73 F) which is not bad for this time of year, way above normal which is 16 C (61 F).
Your plan is a good one. I would not trust anchors in the fibreglass. I was lucky when I installed a grab bar to my elderly Aunt's shower - I found a stud right there.
Usually a tub is away from the stud wall, so you may need backing on the face of the studs. I would go through the wall on the opposite side, as well and have a look. I would start with a 2x4 on the flat between the studs, horizontally. Just put it in place, but don't fasten it in yet.Place one at each end of the bar whether it is horizontal, vertical or on the angle. If the fibreglass is away from the wall, put in a piece of wood as a filler between the fibreglass and the 2x4. Remove the filler and the 2x4 and screw the filler onto the face of the 2x4. Fasten the 2x4 in position, between the studs, backed up to the fibreglass of the tub. Then screw the 2x4 to the studs either from the opposite side of the studs or toe-screw into the stud from the 2x4, just be careful not to go into the tub. The bars are then screwed through the tub into the filler and the 2x4 with heavy wood screws which need to be pre-drilled.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Hi Tristan,
Yes, I have a couple of suggestions for the roof, depending on the length of the addition. If you could give me the measurements of the existing house and the addition, the outside widths (W) and lengths, (L) I can draw up a roof plan for you. I need the height (H) of the roof. I also need to know where you live so I can make sure the roof will support your local wind/snow load, if any.
Here is a drawing to help you get the correct measurements:
Glad you like our website!
Dave
Here is a drawing showing what the new roof will look like:
Dave
From Sabrina, my eldest daughter:
Yes, it usually is installed before the stringers are installed. If installed later each tread/riser has to be cut out/scribed, a bit of a trick!
Hope this helps,
Dad
The skirt definitely dresses it up, alright. We don't have a skirt on our stairs here and I think it looks okay.
Love,
Dad
Yes, this will work. I would scribe the skirt before you put on the treads. This way any gaps will be covered with the treads. The skirt has a function, other than aesthetics, here. The laminate flooring is never cut to fit tightly between walls, there needs to be a gap for expansion and contraction, not so critical when one side is open. Similar to the baseboard the skirt will cover this expansion gap.
Love,
Dad
Thanks, Sabrina, for your question. Just to make it clear, Sabrina does phone me and talk once in a while. We don't just send each other emails.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
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