“Building Confidence”
Click for the black and white, printer friendly version.
Find a word or phrase in a page on our site.
Search
Print Version
Renos 17: How to Replace a Sliding Patio Door

In conversing with a member of our site, recently, I was shocked to hear that he was quoted $900 for labor to remove an existing patio door and replace it with a new unit. I sent him these instructions, hopefully they will help you too.

Here are the steps to remove and replace a sliding patio door unit with the same size unit:

1. Remove the window liner and casing from the inside.

2. Removing the existing patio door: If the house is stucco, by using either a circular saw or an angle grinder with a masonry blade, remove the stucco about 1 1/2" from all around the unit. These door units have a flange on them that is designed to hold the units against the sheathing on the wall. You have to remove the stucco, siding and trim for the first 1 1/2" around the unit, right down to the sheathing, to expose this flange. Get a nail claw and remove the nails driven through the flange into the sheathing. I remove the sliding door to make the frame lighter. Lift up and out on the bottom when the door is in the full open position. The new doors have stop blocks in the frame header which prevents upward movement unless the door is opened enough to slide by these blocks. Older units do not have these. Remove any screws through the frame into the cripple, especially around the latch. Remove the frame unit.

3. Replace the new unit - Set the new unit in position on the sub-floor and shim up one side to level the unit. Shim up under the unit in various places to keep the threshold level. A helper is usefull here to keep the unit from falling out. I usually work by myself so use nails as a third hand, by nailing the nails above the upper flange, enough to allow shiming (if required), and bend them over the flange to prevent the top from tipping out. When the bottom threshold is straight and level nail the bottom flange about 6" apart. Aluminum flanges have a thin groove to nail through, vinyl flanges have elongated holes to nail through. Use roofing nails to nail the flanges, especially on vinyl, center the nail in the slot.

4. Plumb the side of the unit by installing the door back in and close the door to get an even margin. This should require very little movement and should be perfect from the manufacturer. It stands to reason that if the bottom is level the sides should be plumb as long as the unit is square. If it is not, the door may need to be adjusted if the side frames look plumb with a level.The door is levelled using a screw driver on the sides on the bottom, through a hole. By screwing this screw in or out will lift or drop this side of the door. Keep trying until the door slides against the jamb evenly. That's why it is important to level the base well before continuing, so that the door will roll along the bottom nicely and straight rather than going up and down and rubbing on the track. When happy with the unit being plumb, nail up the side flanges on both sides.

5. Remove the nails above the top flange used to temporarily hold the unit at the top. Do not nail any nails in the top flange at all. The top is held against the sheathing with the trim or siding and allows the header to move down without breaking the door unit as the wood shrinks. This is mainly for a new house where the lumber still has a percentage of water in it. Still good practice, though.

6. Open and close the door adjust if necessary.

7. Depending on the type of siding or stucco, you have to replace or install a 1x4 trim on the outside of the door. Pack out above the flange to match the thickness of siding or stucco, usually a ripping of 5/8" plywood works nicely ripped about 1 3/8" wide. The trim will cover the flange and provide shelter from the elements. Caulk the frame to the trim and trim to the siding or stucco, unless it is bevel siding. Use an exterior latex with silicon caulking that is paintable, for example Alex Plus by Dap.

8. Insulate between the door unit and the cripple (jack stud), threshold and header loosely with fibreglass insulation or the spray foam. Finish the inside liner as was the original and install the casing. Caulk up the casing with the same as used outside.

Enjoy your new door.


< previous article next article >

Dave

(Question?) (About Dave) (Print This)