Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
Membership gives you full access to our hundreds of how-to articles, woodworking plans, converters, calculators and tables. Our Stair Calculator is one of the most popular on the internet. We have projects you can build for (and with) your kids, furniture for your wife, and sheds and gazebos. If you run into a problem or need advice your Membership includes unlimited email questions to me through our Ask Dave quick response button.
|Volume 12 Issue 2|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
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Make a circular saw guide instead of buying an expensive cutoff saw. Ref: Jigs 6: Circular Saw Guide.
And a Bonus Tip:
Make a simple woodworkers compass for scribing circles and arcs. Ref: Jigs 7: Woodworking Compass.
I would try to shim between the joists and the sub-floor, if they aren't glued. Use wedges in pairs, from each side of the joist when you shim large spaces like 3/8" to 5/8".
The bottom of the riser is nailed or screwed into the tread from behind or underneath the stairs. That is why I tell you to start at the bottom first so you can lean over the top of the riser and nail it into the tread, since you won't have room to get in there, to nail the bottom few treads, if you start at the top. Once you get a few treads in place, you could go under the stairs and nail in the risers to the treads. So don't nail in a toe-nail; drive a nail from behind.
Hope this helps,
The bottom of the stringers are always cut off the thickness of the tread. Otherwise the bottom riser will be higher than the rest of the treads and the top riser will be less. Then, when attaching the stringer to the upper floor, come down the thickness of the tread. This puts the stringer runs level.
With a narrow box joist, you cut use a piece of 5/8 or 3/4 plywood and nail it to the end of the stringers and into the box joist. Allow for this thickness and cut off the ends of the stringers to compensate. Now this is only an attachment aid. You don't want to rely on the weight of people supported only by some nails or a few screws. So, go a bit farther to support the stringers with posts under them. Another aid to hold the stairs in position is to put in a block between the stringers on the bottom. You can notch the stringers to fit over the block, which is the preferred way or cut the block to fit between the stringers and screw the stringers to the block from the outside of the stringers. This block is attached to a concrete floor with anchors into the concrete and screws though the block into the anchors.
I put both of your questions in this reply.
This is a common question not enough room to secure the stairs. Here is a drawing which answers both questions:
Checkout my video: http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/stair-stringer.php
This video shows the gauges in position. Also, checkout my article on Stair Layout for the drawing of the gauges on the square.
It is easier to use the stair calculator. It will not only figure out the rise and run for you, the number of each, but also the drawing of your particular stringer, the attachment point on the top and the cut off amount on the bottom.
Here are the results of the Stair Calculator:
Hope this helps,
When I did renos around showers, I would remove the drywall and tile stuck to it. Then replace the drywall with cement board, tape and mud, prime, then apply new tiles. If you want to remove just two tiles and continue, I would use a heat gun and try to soften the glue (tile adhesive), then pry the tiles off. If you cut the tile off, it would probably remove the drywall, as well. One of the best small tools that I have found for cutting ceramic tile, including inside corners and circular shapes is the 4" angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade. My first diamond blade was $50, but now they are very common and are available for 3 in a pack for $20 or $30, or less: a very useful tool.
Hope this helps,
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
Rip two pieces of 3/4" plywood, not oak, but fir or cheaper, preferably scrap, 3"x36" and two pieces 3"x16". Measure the base plate diameter on your router. Make a box with the short pieces on top of the long pieces, as shown. X equals the... Read more at Jigs 3: Dado Router Jig
Thanks for your emails this month.