Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
Membership gives you full access to our hundreds of how-to articles, woodworking plans, converters, calculators and tables. Our Stair Calculator is one of the most popular on the internet. We have projects you can build for (and with) your kids, furniture for your wife, and sheds and gazebos. If you run into a problem or need advice your Membership includes unlimited email questions to me through our Ask Dave quick response button.
|Volume 12 Issue 5|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
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Keep soil at least 6" below the bottom of wood siding or any wood on a house. Ref: Tables 12: Construction Estimating Checklist.
And a Bonus Tip:
To save time in cutting all the studs for a home renovation, you can purchase pre-cut studs for an 8' or 9' ceiling. Ref: How to Build a House 4: Install Aluminum or Vinyl Soffits.
Only put in the thickness of the tread, not the riser. If the carpet is going on the floor as well as the treads, don't include that thickness either. The purpose for putting in the tread thickness is to know how much to cut off the bottom of the stringer and then to drop the stringer down that amount, as well, from the top floor. So if the finish on the stairs is the same as the top and bottom floors, this will make each riser work out to be the same height, which is what you want.
If you have any more questions or don't understand this, please continue to ask questions, until you are satisfied. A drawing or photo may also help me to understand better what you are having difficulty with.
It is getting warmer, here on the coast, 23 C (73 F) which is not bad for this time of year, way above normal which is 16 C (61 F).
Your plan is a good one. I would not trust anchors in the fibreglass. I was lucky when I installed a grab bar to my elderly Aunt's shower - I found a stud right there.
Usually a tub is away from the stud wall, so you may need backing on the face of the studs. I would go through the wall on the opposite side, as well and have a look. I would start with a 2x4 on the flat between the studs, horizontally. Just put it in place, but don't fasten it in yet.Place one at each end of the bar whether it is horizontal, vertical or on the angle. If the fibreglass is away from the wall, put in a piece of wood as a filler between the fibreglass and the 2x4. Remove the filler and the 2x4 and screw the filler onto the face of the 2x4. Fasten the 2x4 in position, between the studs, backed up to the fibreglass of the tub. Then screw the 2x4 to the studs either from the opposite side of the studs or toe-screw into the stud from the 2x4, just be careful not to go into the tub. The bars are then screwed through the tub into the filler and the 2x4 with heavy wood screws which need to be pre-drilled.
Hope this helps,
Yes, I have a couple of suggestions for the roof, depending on the length of the addition. If you could give me the measurements of the existing house and the addition, the outside widths (W) and lengths, (L) I can draw up a roof plan for you. I need the height (H) of the roof. I also need to know where you live so I can make sure the roof will support your local wind/snow load, if any.
Here is a drawing to help you get the correct measurements:
Glad you like our website!
Here is a drawing showing what the new roof will look like:
From Sabrina, my eldest daughter:
Yes, it usually is installed before the stringers are installed. If installed later each tread/riser has to be cut out/scribed, a bit of a trick!
Hope this helps,
The skirt definitely dresses it up, alright. We don't have a skirt on our stairs here and I think it looks okay.
Yes, this will work. I would scribe the skirt before you put on the treads. This way any gaps will be covered with the treads. The skirt has a function, other than aesthetics, here. The laminate flooring is never cut to fit tightly between walls, there needs to be a gap for expansion and contraction, not so critical when one side is open. Similar to the baseboard the skirt will cover this expansion gap.
Made me cry!!
Thanks, Sabrina, for your question and the Mom appreciation video. Just to make it clear, Sabrina does phone me and talk once in a while. We don't just send each other emails. Actually, if a father can boast, a bit, Sabrina home schools her 3 kids. Her eldest boy has already graduated from High School and number two son is graduating on the Father's Day weekend, this June. We will be taking the ferry ride from our Vancouver Island home to the BC mainland to share in the celebration, along with our other 2 daughters and grandkids. I hope they remember it is Father's Day! Oh, can't forget I need to take a few tools to replace a broken window in number 3 daughter's home. I think somebody should do a YouTube video on Father's Jobs, right guys? No, we love our Mothers dearly.
Usually, a sand mix is for a topping over existing concrete and is about 2" thick. You need more cement, as well, about 11 bags per cubic yard compared to about 6 for concrete with aggregate. For your size of pad, you need about a yard of aggregate. You should be able to buy navvy jack, a pre-mixed aggregate for concrete, so you just add water and cement. For that big a pour, I would rent a concrete mixer, rather than hand mix it in a wheelbarrow. For a 4" to 6" slab you could use 6"x6" steel mesh as reinforcement, hardware cloth isn't heavy enough and it is galvanized, bare steel is better. The mesh goes in the center of the slab.
Enjoy your camping,
I would recommend the PC products - PC 7 is a good all purpose 2 part epoxy. PC 11 is more for boats and marine environments.
Here is their website: http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/paste-epoxies/pc-7.php
Here are some new numbers for you. The minimum run where I live is 8 1/4", the International code is 9". So checkout the minimum run for your area.
Stair Measurements from Dave's Easy Stair Calculator at DaveOsborne.com
Total Rise entered: 106 inches
Floor Thickness: not entered
Number of rises: 14 rises Number of runs: 13 runs
Height of each rise: 7 9/16 inches Length of each run: 8 3/4 inches
Total Run: 113 3/4 inches (9'-5 3/4")
Length of board needed for the stringer: 14 feet
Length of opening in upper floor: needs Floor Thickness
Tape measurements (in inches) for the stringer: 6 5/8; 18 3/16; 29 3/4; 41 11/32; 52 29/32; 64 15/32; 76 1/32; 87 5/8; 99 3/16; 110 3/4; 122 5/16; 133 29/32; 145 15/32.
If you plug in the total rise of 106 and force the rise to be 7.6 and the run to be 8.75. You will get the same print out as I did, including a drawing of the stringer.
I allowed 1" thickness of treads so yours actually may be different.
Let me know how you make out. To give the treads a wider depth, add a 3/4" nosing to them.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
How to Build a House, First Step: Find Your Lot
The house lot and house plan is like a horse and carriage, you need both parts for it to work properly and one comes before the other. It would be silly to have the carriage pulling the horse. Just as it would be to buy a set of house plans for your new dream home before buying a lot. As some houses are suited for a level lot others are suited for a steep lot. Which way is the view, toward the front or back of the lot? Is the house layout compatible with the lot layout? Are the windows looking out in the direction of the view?
You and your spouse have finally come to the conclusion you want to build your own house. This may include physically driving every nail or acting as the General Contractor and hiring sub-trades to do the work. First thing to do is go and look around for a nice house lot. Consider the area in which you want to purchase, the price of a lot or acreage and the amount of view or privacy provided.
Finally the day has come to walk the lot you have chosen. Now you can research the type of... Read more at How to Build a House 1: House Lot and House Plans
Our Feature Article of the Month, starts with this issue on a Five Part Series on How to Build a House. Hope you checkout our site for this and other How to Do It articles.
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