The following drawings for the Bike Storage Shed:
These plans include a List of Materials for the Bike Storage Shed, listing quantity and dimension of studs, plates, floor and roof joists, sub-floor tongue and groove plywood, OSB for the walls and roof, rolled roofing, screws, roofing nails, hinges, hasps and caulking.
The Instructions for the Bike Storage Shed include the following topics:
Start with making a frame with 5 - 2x4 joists cut at 9'-9" long, that is 3" less than 10'. Cut 2 - 2x2 box or rim joists at 5'3" long and screw them to the ends of the joist when they are laying on the flat. Layout the two box joists together marking the position of the joists on them. Start at one end and measure over 14 1/4", with an X where the joist goes to be centered on 16". Continue marking the remaining joists by measuring 16" from each mark. When using screws at the end of a 2x2, pre-drill the hole in the 2x2 to prevent splitting. Two screws per each end of the 2x4 is good.
With the frame complete, move it to position and level it up securely with concrete pads. Make sure it is square by measuring the diagonals which should be equal if square. As with any wood on concrete protect it with sill gasket, roofing felt or use pressure treated lumber.
Fasten the plywood on the frame of the bike storage shed across the joists with 2" screws at 12" centers except 6" centers on the edges. Start with the groove side of the plywood flush with the edge of the frame. Cut the length of the sheet off to match the width of the floor, ie. 63". Cut the next sheet off at 63" and place it against the first, to interlock the tongue and groove and tap the sheet into position placing a 2x4 against the tongue, of the second sheet, using a sledge hammer. The tongue and groove will not close tight, but should be even and snug. Take the piece you cut off and use it to start the next row. Make sure the ends of the sheets rest on a joist. Place the factory end against factory end on the joist and keep the cut off end against the outside. This makes a better joint on the floor. Plan your cuts so this will happen. Screw the plywood securely to the frame.
Start with the front frame as shown on the Front Framing Elevation. The best place to layout the walls is flat on the floor. This side is the highest of the walls. Cut 3 - 2x2 studs at 74 7/8" long. Cut 2 - 2x2 plates at 10' long. It is good workmanship to layout the wall studs and the floor joists from the same point so that the two will be lined up when assembled, especially with a single top plate. The wall and window studs should be laid out from the left end wall at 16" on center. Layout the 3 main studs as well as the window studs on the top and bottom plates together, side by side, as shown in the drawing. The 6 - 2x2 window studs are cut at 52". Fasten all the studs through the top and bottom plates with 1 - 3"x#8 screw as well as the 2 end window studs into their opposing main stud at the door and the corner. Notice there is no header over the door or over the 7' shelf opening. to give more clearance. The roof will be supported over these openings by a double box joist. Don't worry about the 3/8" OSB at this point, for the shelf. With the wall down flat on the floor. The front of the bike storage shed will overhang almost 2' so prop it up with scraps. Cut 2 sheets of 3/8 at 4'x80" long. Install them vertically on the wall, flush with the top and the side. Use screws to space the sheets apart to allow for expansion and contraction, with OSB. The bottom of the sheet should overhang by 2 1/8, to cover the floor frame. Rip another sheet the amount you have left. It should be about 23 3/4. Rip it first before cutting to length of 80". Now fasten this piece into position. Leave this wall down and continue to build the others on top of it.
The back wall studs of the bike storage shed are 1 1/2" shorter than the front wall to allow a slope for the roof. Cut these studs at 73 3/8" and fasten them to the 10' top and bottom plates after laying them out together on 16" center, similar to the front wall. Lay the wall down flat on the front wall. Cut 2 sheets of 3/8 at 4'x78 1/2" long. Install them vertically on the wall, flush with the top. The bottom of the sheet should overhang by 2 1/8, to cover the floor. Rip the left over half sheet the correct amount. It should be about 23 3/4. Cut the ripping to 78 1/2, as well. Now fasten this piece into position. After installing the shed walls, you will not have room to caulk or paint the exterior sheathing which is also used as vertical siding, because it will be against the fence, so now is the time to apply the sheathing, caulking and paint to the back and left side walls.
The left end wall is next. As shown on the Left End Framing Elevation drawing, notice that the corner studs are not the same length since we want the roof to slope. Usually on a 2x4 wall with the studs on the flat, we slope the top of the studs. In this case the slope on the 2x2 studs is 1/32", which can be overlooked, ie. cut the studs square but 1/32" shorter for the corner studs. Cut 2 - 2x2 plates 63 less 3 for the already existing studs on the front and back walls. So cut the plates 60" long. Allowing for the slope, cut the left hand side stud at 73 5/16 and the right hand end 74 13/16, that is 1/16 less than the front and back studs. Screw these two studs into position on the plates. With the wall flat on the floor, tack (not on the face) the bottom plate down so it won't move, being sure it is straight, square the wall by measuring equal diagonals. The wall has to be the same height and width for this, so measure up each corner stud an equal amount, almost to the top and measure to these points. Move the top plate until the diagonals are equal. Tack the top plate down when square, being sure it is straight. Measure between the top and bottom plates at the intermediate stud positions and cut them to fit, snug. As with the back wall, sheath this wall while it is laying down. Remember to allow the thickness of sheathing to extend over the sheathing and 2x2 of the back wall.
Now do the last wall, as shown on the Right End Framing Elevation drawing. Notice the opening is below the studs. We call these studs the header studs. The middle plate is considered the header, in this case, since the roof joists span this wall, it is not considered a supporting or bearing wall. Cut the top plate at 60". Notice no bottom plate on this wall. Cut the left hand corner stud 76 5/16 and the right hand stud at 74 13/16. Install these into position as shown. Cut the 2x2 header at 57" and fasten it in position into the corner stud. Square the wall as before and cut the intermediate header studs to fit the slope. Install the sheathing as before.
Assemble the walls of the bike storage shed. Start with the back wall and left wall. Put them into position and screw the corner studs together from the inside. Do not screw the floor down at this time. Fasten the right wall corner studs together. Take a 2x4x12 and temporarily screw it to the left and right corner stud where the front wall will go. Carefully lift out the 3 walls and slide them toward the center of the floor until you have clearance to screw the sheathing to the back and left end corners. Prop up the right wall as it overhangs the floor. Slide the walls back into position. Remove the 2x4x12 and install the remaining front wall into position. Fasten the corner studs together and the bottom plates to the floor with 3" screws through the 2x2 and 2x4 joists.
Cut 11 - 2x4 roof joists at 60" long. Cut 4 - 2x4 box joists at 11'-4 3/4". Layout 2 of the box joists out for joists on 16" centers starting 1 1/2" in from the Left End wall side, as was done when laying out the front and back wall studs. Fasten the box joist flush with the front wall of the bike storage shed and extend the end over the left wall by 1 1/2"and the right wall end by 16". Do the same over the back wall. Fasten the 2x4 joists into position as laid out on the box joists. Double up the box joists. These should be fastened together with 2 nails or screws every 12" centers. Install the 3/8" sheathing across the joists starting at the right wall end, making the sheet flush on the end of and centered on the joist. Continue fastening the sheathing next to this sheet. Remember to space the sheets out about 1/8", by using screws or nails as a spacer. Alternate the next row of sheathing by using the last piece cut off and cut it to fit from the right end to the center of the joist. Continue until complete. When the sheathing of the bike storage shed is all on, now is the time to install the fascia boards. Don't worry about mitering the ends, just overlap them. If a gutter is required on the lower back fascia board, you can add that, as well.
Now is the time to install the 2x2 partition from the front to the back at the side of the door to enclose the bike storage and upper shelf area. Measure and cut the 2x2 top and bottom plates. Lay them out for 16" centers. Build this wall similar to the end walls with the tapered row of studs. Now measure, cut and install the 2x4 ledger around the inside of the floor for the upper shelf. Cut the front and back ledger to full length, then cut the ends and joists to go in between. Fasten the ledger flush with the top of the 2x2 plate of the front wall of the bike storage shed and measure the back wall up from the floor the same amount to be level. Make sure the ledger is fastened to every stud, front, back and sides. Now measure, cut and install the floor of the shelf using the 3/8" OSB. Fasten it into the joists with 2" screws. Before starting on the roof, add some 2x2 blocking between studs on the back wall and ends of the shelf. Place these flush with the top of the OSB shelf to prevent small parts from falling through the studs. Keep your hockey stick within easy reach if anything small gets pushed towards the back wall, once the roof is up.
Roofing for this type of shed is limited to torch-on, hot tar or rolled. I suggest the rolled roofing. Most manufacturers have very concise instructions for applying their specific roofings. Purchase the rolled roofing with the mineral applied to half the roll, called selvage rolled roofing. This type stands up to the elements better than regular rolled roofing. Start at the bottom of the roof of the bike storage shed and snap a line for the top edge of the roll to follow. Measure up the width of roll less 1 1/2" for overhang. Start the roll 1" over the right or left edge. The roll is bed down in lap cement specifically designed for this application. Follow the instructions on the package.
The doors are made of 3/8 OSB on a frame of 2x2 at 16" centers, cut to fit on the inside of the opening. Cut the door about 1/4" less than the opening width and height. Mount the doors of the bike storage shed in place with the Tee/strap hinges. Install door stops on the latch side and top side of the opening by using 1x3 strips screwed into the inside of the opening studs. For double doors a 1x3 is attached to one side of the doors in the center to act as an astragal.
Paint the rest of the bike storage shed and load it up!
Dave(Ask Dave) (About Dave)
Hi, I'm Dave Osborne. With over 50 years experience as a journeyman carpenter, foreman and contractor in heavy construction I enjoyed working with apprentices and sharing the tricks of the trade that others shared with me. Now I get emails from Members all over the world and we include many of my answers in our Free Monthly Newsletters. Some of my answers include drawings and instructions specific to a project, but may also answer your questions. I use correct construction terminology, so you can confidently inform your building supply dealers or contractors exactly what you need.
Membership gives you full access to our hundreds of how-to articles, woodworking plans, converters, calculators and tables. Our Stair Calculator is one of the most popular on the internet. We have projects you can build for (and with) your kids, furniture for your wife, and sheds and gazebos. If you run into a problem or need advice your Membership includes unlimited email questions to me through our Ask Dave quick response button.