|Volume 13 Issue 4|
Welcome to Dave's Shop Talk's Home Improvement Newsletter of questions from our members on their construction projects, a Tip of the Month and a home remodeling article, both from our website at http://daveosborne.com.
Be sure to check out our ebooks! We have finished 6 of the 10 eBooks in our Building Confidence series and are being told how helpful they are to do it yourselfers! Let your friends know about them!
To remove stains on a stainless steel sink and restore its luster, use the product called Bar Keepers Friend, a powered cleanser and polish. Wear gloves and form a paste right in the sink with a scour cloth, rinse with water and buff with a dry cloth. As always, follow the instructions on the label.
To clean a stainless steel thermos bottle, pour boiling water within 1 inch of the top. Pour in 1 heaping teaspoon of powder dishwasher detergent (Cascade or Electrosol). Replace cap, let stand for 1 hour while gently agitating, periodically. Remove cap and pour out most of the liquid except for about 3" from the bottom. Gently, insert a bottle brush cleaning the sides well. When removing the brush, be careful not to splash any liquid in the eyes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Here is how I did my windows with vinyl siding:
This window is under a 24" overhang, so doesn't need a drip cap.
This Patio door has a drip cap over the door as well as over the trim board.
You need to put a wood trim around a window if installing vinyl siding. The trim is caulked to the window and not to the J-molding.
There is a correct way of installing the trim around a window. Start at the bottom with the trim board flush with the window on the ends. Then install the sides flush with the top of the window and bypassing the bottom trim board, flush to the bottom, Then put in the top trim over the sides.
Here is a drawing of the trim around a window:
Here is a link to my article on Vinyl siding:
Hope this helps,
You have been busy!
I would go with the 6 mil vapor barrier poly. This has UV protection. I know it seems weird when you need UV in the dark, but that is what the code requires and it stands up much better.
Your friend is correct - the 2x6 floor joists are good for a 9'-4" span at 16" centers. That is good to secure the joists on the studs on the sides. I would extend the joist into the studs on the ends, as well, to keep them up right. Also, I would put a row of 2x6 solid bridging down the center of the span and nail/screw and glue the subfloor to the joists. This really helps it become 1 unit. Use sub-floor adhesive in a tube, following the instructions on the tube.
One more tip, when framing the landing for the stairs to turn 90 degrees, calculate the height of the landing as 1 of the steps in the stairs. Take into consideration the thickness of insulation and joists and subfloor in your calculations. The code does not require the rises to be the same above and below the landing, but I prefer to do this. I go into this in more depth in this article:
Hope this helps,
Use the standard drywall screw that is #6 x 1 1/4". Go with a 2x2 where possible, especially on the outside corner. This makes it easier to screw from both sides of the corner.
(taken from our website: DaveOsborne.com
In my woodworking career there have been numerous times I needed to scribe an arc or a complete circle, usually full size. For example, scribing the trim for a 6' wide circle head window with a 3' radius or making a template for rounding off the corners of a curved archway.
A handy idea to use for a large woodworking compass in the field, is to make a... Read more at Jigs 7: Woodworking Compass.
Hope you enjoy the Newsletter this month.
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